It was healthful, simple to make, and delicious as a snack, especially when topped with poppy flower seeds and presented in cubes.
The ancient Romans feasted on a delicious honey-crusted cheesecake called Savillum, which is believed to be the real ancestor of modern US-style cheesecake.
Instead of Philadelphia soft cheese, there was fresh goat milk ricotta straight from the shepherds. It was adored by slaves, aristocrats and soldiers.
The oldest completely documented recipe for a delicacy similar to modern cheesecake goes back to the third century BCE and was published by a notable ancient Roman senator, army officer, and historian.
“Cato the Elder was not only a great writer and philosopher; he was also a gourmet and supporter of rural traditions and foods,” says Giorgio Franchetti, an ancient Rome food researcher and author of the book “Dining With The Ancient Romans.”
Franchetti says Cato recorded the recipe for his favorite cake, Savilium, in one of his key works, “De Agri Cultura.” It was, he tells CNN, “very popular in Roman households.”
A dessert with legs
According to Franchetti, many tales and stories have been generated around the development of this beloved dessert, but only the one of its Roman origin has authenticity.
Savillum traveled across the Roman Empire, eventually settling in England and then, centuries later, in the New World, developing with time and taking on local variations.
“Savillum had very long legs, and it traveled the globe,” adds Franchetti, who has discovered several old Roman recipes. “Over time, the Romans perfected the cooking and preparation technique, spreading it from the Middle East to Britain.”
“It was a very simple cake made with everyday ingredients like goat milk, honey, and eggs.” And, because to Cato, we even know the exact amounts of each.”
Another origin story has it that the ancient Greeks produced a “rudimentary” general dish of cheese and honey before the Romans in the 8th century BCE and used it to give Olympic competitors an energy boost.
According to Franchetti, the few secondary Greek sources that reference the meal do not provide particular data about how it was cooked or what it looked like, let alone an exact recipe.
Even if it was adopted and refined by Greece’s Roman conquerors, he adds, it was the Romans who globalized Savillum, not the Greeks.
‘Bake the deep center thoroughly’
Cato provides detailed directions and recommendations for creating the cheesecake in his recipe.
He suggests combining half a libra of flour (1 Roman libra equaled around 11.5 ounces or 327 grams), 2.5 libra of goat cheese (called ricotta), one egg, and a quarter libra of honey in a terracotta pot previously oiled with olive oil, covering it with a lid, and placing it on the fire.
Cato expressly suggests baking the deep, thicker center fully. “Once baked, pour over it honey and sprinkle poppy flower seeds on top, then place back on the fire to finalize the baking before serving it,” according to the recipe.
Savillum was most likely given without a spoon because the Romans preferred to eat with their fingers, but it was diced to make it simpler to eat. It was often consumed throughout the meal rather than as a treat at the conclusion.
Cato’s Savillum, as well as other ancient Roman foods, may still be enjoyed today at aristocratic “Roman dinners” held at archeological sites in Italy by Franchetti and “archeo-cook” Cristina Conte, who recreates recipes from the Eternal City.
Diners at private gatherings are typically clothed in traditional Roman garments to create an imperial atmosphere.
“Savillum is extremely simple and quick to make, only two hours, much less than cheesecake,” explains Conte, who often makes ancient Roman delicacies for her family at home. “It has an exquisite sweet-sour taste due to the honey and cheese.”
“It was a very humble treat that was enjoyed on a regular basis by both low and aristocratic families.” When feasible, I bake it in an oven or wood oven, and I love it when it’s still warm and fluffy and creamy.”
When prepared to perfection, Savillum looks like a roundish pancake or omelet with a little yellowish surface. According to Conte, the Romans also developed a version using apples and pears.